Click on any of the following questions to see the answer. If you find the answer to be incomplete, or you have a question not covered in the Ural FAQ, then please use the Quick Contact form and send us a note. This Ural FAQ is a living breathing document, so it will continue to change and we will update items as we encounter them. Thanks!
7′ 7″ x 5′ 7″
3′ 5″ wide, 75″ long and 32″ from the ground
75″ long, 24″ wide and 18″ tall
1,345 lbs
A well maintained Ural should average around 30MPG. Of course the more cool stuff you add to your Ural to personalize it, or the more supplies you bring—as you ride across country—will adversely affect your bike’s fuel economy.
It depends on your riding situations. Stock Duro HF 308′s and Russian Uralshina’s are fine for most on road, and light off road, applications. For a rougher off road experience, and better lasting tire there is the Duro HF 307 and the Heidenau K 37′s. For strictly street riding there are many choices such as Avons. The main thing to remember is the tire has to have a hard sidewall with a 650 lbs. or better weight rating.
Contact your Authorized Ural dealer.
If you have a trusted local dealer, in your area, who is willing to go through our pretty straightforward warranty process, you can have work done with them. Have the shop of your choice contact us through our quick contact form or via e-mail warranty@imz-ural.com.
Yes, we offer an additional one-year warranty for newly purchased Urals, please contact your dealer for more details or read more about the extended warranty here.
Yes. Warranty stays with the bike regardless of how many times the ownership changes/or how many people own it. If you are buying a previously loved Ural please fill out the Ural New Owner Form.
No, we do not offer such a trailer here in the United States.
Unquestionably.
Yes, please have your Ural dealer order a new one if needed, and file a warranty claim.
Yes, your Ural comes with the touch up paint, unless it’s a powder coated model (i.e. Ural T). Read more about why we powdercoat.
Yes—when available—from any authorized Ural dealer.
Urals are painted in European RAL codes, not all RAL codes have a cross-referenced code to USA paint. Any quality auto paint shop should be able to paint match your bike color.
Interstate Battery # YTX20L-BS
Wal-Mart Battery # ES20L-BS
Odyssey Battery # PC680
The recommended battery for a 1996 Ural kickstart only is an Interstate # 12N9-4B-1.
Under the seat.
A good place to start researching rider training is at Evergreen Training, or check our sidecar safety page under the support section of our website.
Minimum: a pair of spark plugs, clutch cable, a COMPLETE set of throttle cables and splitter, at least one rubber carb manifold, 1 rubber inner tube, a tube patch kit, tire pump manual or electric, small jack, a roll of electrical tape, a roll of duct tape, a bunch of wire ties, a COMPLETE tool kit, some 14 gauge electrical wire (10 ft), fuses, credit card and towing insurance policy never hurt.
Check the blog as well, we’ve shared many long distance stories, and the authors often share their personal insights and experiences.
UDF: Ural Delay Factor. The Ural Delay Factor is the delay you’ll experience whenever you take your Ural out in public. Regardless of your intent, where you’re headed, or how much time you have, you’ll lern to add in 10-15 minutes minimum to cope with UDF.
Please send your USPS mailing address to emissary@imz-ural.com and we’ll send you a stack of flyers so you can deal with UDF more efficiently when you need to.
In case you need to know:
Emissary Program: The Emissary Program was born out of the need to deal with the UDF by your felow, or soon to be fellow, Uralistas. By having brochures or cards—supplied by the Emissary Program— on-hand, you’re able to expedite the process, get people interested, and minimize UDF.
Yes, it can be ordered through any authorized Ural dealer.
No. In this situation, you would have to order an adapter kit from a sidecar specialist.
Yes, but it can be rather expensive, please contact your authorized Ural dealer for more information.
Technically it is entirely possible to remove the sidecar from a Ural. But you need to understand that the handling dynamics of a two-wheeler and a three-wheeler are completely different and each requires different designs. Ural sidecar models are specifically designed to offer the best sidecar handling.
If you are interested in riding solo, then perhaps you should check out the Solo sT.
Yes. The Solo sT is a 2013 model and in stock—or available for order—at your local Ural dealer.
A Ural solo is designed to be ridden as a solo and we do not recommend adding a sidecar. You can’t attach our sidecar without a significant amount of modification to a solo unit. For example, we would suggest changing the telescoping forks for leading link forks. Metal tabs that hold the sidecar struts would have to be welded onto the frame, adapters would need to be made, the rear brake would have to be changed back to drum—as a disc brake are not designed to withstand the strains of the addition of a sidecar unit—nor does it have a parking brake which is required by law.
Think about it, you might figure it’s worthwhile just adding a sidecar model to your stable. The Ural T, for instance, is a great value at a MSRP of $10,499. The T is a no frills just the basics kind of sidecar motorcycle and it comes with the full two year warranty.
We usually recommend 80-100 lbs placed in the passenger footwell of the sidecar.
Yes, give us call and we will give you the 10 cent tour.
At this time we do not provide such assistance due to the complexity of export/import rules and processes in each country.
We don’t organize factory tours, but here is a company that works closely with the factory and provides tours; Ural Expedition and Tours.
We know it’s a tempting idea, but the answer is nyet. It has to do with importation and registration regulations across the US/Canadian border. When in Canada, buy from a Canadian dealer and when in the US, well… you get the idea.
Websites such as Russian Iron, SovietSteeds, etc.
Simple!
On a VIN that starts with *X8J* the 10th digit indicates the year. If the 10th digit is a letter, then: A=2010, B=2011, C=2012, etc.
No, the machine guns were becoming incredibly hard to import, making the mount unnecessary. But honestly, we phased it out, as interest waned.
There are no plans to build the Cross-bike.
These are no longer being produced.
We do not have a set date for EFI at this time. It will not be available on 2013 models and we’ll update everyone when we set a production date.
That’s one question we love to answer. As usual the devil is in the details. For instance, the price of a Tourist model has increased from $5,995 in 1993 to $11,799 in 2012. Equipped with a calculator, you will easily find that the price increase did not exceed 3.5% annually. Adjusted for inflation it’s not shocking at all.
The Ural of today is light years away from what it was as recently as 2003, not to mention the earlier models. Brembo, Herzog, Keihin, Denso, Sachs, Marzocchi, Ducati Energia, SKF – these are just a few names of component suppliers we use to build Urals. All of these parts encounter tariffs coming into Russia and then there are tariffs on the bikes going out. Not to mention transportation costs on said parts and bikes, etc.
We are tempted to go on, but we’ll just stop with Ural T. It has a price tag of $10,499 and we have increased the price only once since the model’s introduction in 2009.